February, 2021

9 inches of snow in Central Texas, seriously?

I decided that something must be said, my last post said it was 107 that day, but last week it was 3 freaking degrees above zero, which means I don’t know how far below zero on that weird Celsius/Centigrade/Kelvin system the rest of the world uses, but whatever they say it was too cold to work in my frozen garage!

I have done some “stuff” to the car, just haven’t done the documentation and therefore I’m not ready to post the story at this time.

August 16th, 2020

Keeping the progress moving a bit at a time, it hit 107 degrees today!

The contents of the pump kit, I ended up using a smaller sock than the one shown since the “Tanks” tank has baffles on the floor of the unit.
Pump mounted, I used the foam gasket on it, and a cork one for the filler neck which came with the tank. I thought the foam might keep the noise down a little bit by absorbing the vibrations caused by the electric pump.
Here’s the new tank in the car. Notice the filler neck from the car is too long? It reaches all the way to the top of the tank.
If I line up the filler neck with the one on the tank I can get the rubber hose over it, but look how far out the back of the car the neck reaches? SO the 69-70 tank is taller than the 65-68 ones, I looked at getting a 69-70 neck but they look juts like the early model.
So I cut it off!
Fits just fine now. Notice the bottom of the rubber bit is off in this picture, I resolved that.
Made a hole in my floorboards to avoid interference with the pump or the gauge unit. Notice the NPD part is gone? I covered the entire metal trunk with spray-in bed-liner while the tank was out. The wood seen in the front was screwed in from the bottom to be flush. Also you can see the spare-tire hold down bracket sticking up through the plywood, and four holes for the battery too.
I made two holes in the floor for the fuel line to go through right above the factory muffler bracket bolts. The ones shown are 13/16ths, I had to get a 1-inch step bit to enlarge them for threaded fittings.
The PVC fittings are threaded in, but I was worried they might back out from vibration so I epoxied them too.
Called it a day at this point. Did not put the AN fittings on since I have to be precise with the length and there are concerns about the routing from underneath.

August 9th, 2020

Getting the entire fuel system replaced.

Already showed the throttle-body, this is the model number and the internal fuel pump assembly that I got to go with it.
I was much happier thinking Id never have to make a braided-hose with AN fittings, but here we are.
Did I mention I hate these things? Yes, there was tape on that when it was cut. Obviously ruined that inch or two, ready to cut again a bit further down.
There are two 60-degree fittings coming off the back of the Fitech.
Took my pretty trunk apart, drained the old tank, ready to pull it out. I had forgotten the NPD paint was still inside that quarter too, more on that later.
Here is the new tank, from “Tanks”, this one is made for a 69 or 70 Mustang, which means it fits the bolt pattern but holds 22 gallons not 16. Note all three holes are backed and tapped for universal pumps and floats.

July 26th, 2020

Remember the concept of two steps forward one step back? Well multiply that times 3 or 4 this month. Started out with a partial cave-in to modernity, I decided to dump the Holley carb for an EFI setup.

Simple matter of replacing the carb, wiring pretty simple, most “work” involved was drilling a hole for the O2 sensor.
I did have one problem, I over torqued the air cleaner stud and broke it off. Problem resolved but more delay.
What caused all the progress to require undoing will be the installation of an in-tank EFI system with return and vent. Basically I have to take the trunk apart again, then drain and dry the tank, then cut a large hole in the top to put this in.

July 10th, 2020

It is an understatement to say I haven’t made an update in a while. It is not that I have done nothing to the car, but I have to admit I have stopped being so active.

I’d blame the disaster that 2020 is turning into, pandemics and rioting, but I’d have to include the oppressive heat of a Texas summer as well as vacation time and indoor household projects as my excuses. But they are just excuses.

This will be a very large “blog post” trying to catch up yest still break down individual activities.

Sometime in April

I noticed the paint shop failed to spray the rear wheel wells, resulting in the visible use of filler.
Pulled the wheels off and masked the body.
Sprayed some black bedliner in there to hide the ugly.
Now invisible with the tire blocking most of the opening.

Sometime in May

Know anyone who wants a high volume (racing) electric water pump?
The lower hose was super easy, shown during a test fit before the beauty covers installed.
How the tubes are cut to fit, just a hacksaw.
Rubber adapter on the hose end.
Rubber adapter on the engine side. Also shown the heater lines are plugged or looped for now, there’s no core in the passenger compartment nor an outlet on the manifold.
A really tight fit between the upper manifold host and the vacuum advance.
But there is it, all sealed up!

All through May

The car took a background role while I remodeled the office/computer-room. After dacades of abuse the room was looking downright grungy. It was only when posting this update that I realized I had no good pictures of the room in “before” condition, but here’s what I did.

One of few pictures, this one shows the racing gear setup with triple monitors.
This was actually during the beginning of the project, but you can sort of see the stained and faded blue-gray carpet and plain beige walls.
I started by painting the walls with a dark gray, the rough top edge was on purpose, I was going to cover that with crown molding.
Here’s the crown molding prior to being compound mitered.
Also took the opportunity to pain the doors.
Installing the crown molding showed my how “unsqaure” (not a word?) my walls were. These gaps were sealed with normal caulk and visually disappeared.
I used “click-lock” vinyl flooring. With 75% of our house ceramic tiled I wanted a warmer look and feel. I have used actual hardwood flooring before and it is not very durable. So the “fake wood” flooring solved my concerns while saving a lot of cash. Just pick a corner and start. Each plank that went against the back wall was cut to random lengths to avoid a visible pattern that would show if they were all the same 4-foot length.
This is just an example of the cuts I made around door moldings.
Just continue laying it, one long strip at a time.
After the floors were done I began working on my “stone wall”. Here you see cement backer boards screwed into the studs.
The backer board was filled in and the laying of “stone” began. I used a product from Coronado stone, these are made of cement at a small fraction of what rock would cost. It was started in the corner and slowly continued until covered, much like the floors.
As O got near the right wall the random lengths needed would require each one to be custom cut.
This shows what the ‘stones” looked like before I cut them up. I used an angle grinder with appropriate safety tools; eye and ear protection as well as a respirator for the silica dust.
Showing it near completion, The floors, walls, trim and moldings all visible.

Sometime in June

With the car back in running condition I drove it to the shop my son works at to get it computer aligned. The car was a bit of a handful with my eyeballed alignment, it was way off so I had never pushed the performance, accelerating/braking/cornering with appropriate car (fear?) for a vehicle that was not sorted.

No way to show it but after the alignment I took the car up to 80mph and it tracked straight with hands temporarily removed from the wheel. It also braked straight and true from a 70mph (near panic) stop. With my willingness to push I was also happy to see it FINALLY shift into overdrive! This is huge for me since I was afraid my 2,600 stall converter might be too loose to allow overdrive,

That left the speedometer as my next highest priority. It had never worked right. We thought it was getting interference from the amplifier, after proving that false it was the water pump, then a ground loop. Eventually we rewired the hall-effect sensor on it’s own circuit and it worked finally. I have a short video of it cruising at ~70mph but WordPress won’t allow me to post videos 😦

Took the pretty part off the console. There’s a few more electrical gremlins to hunt down and this makes it far easier. Hope to work on that this weekend.

March 11th, 2020


Hard to see in 2D but the dark grey rectangle bit hovering near the middle of the picture is a brush, the other one should be on the end of that copper braided wire but it broke somehow when separating the alternator halves.


So I needed a set of brushes and the springs. Amazon has them along with the entire black plastic part for $14 and could have them at my door the next day. I like supporting the local brick and mortar stores even if they are nationwide chains. AutoZone had them for the same price so I went in and prepaid for the part to arrive the next day. When I went to pick it up I found out it was out of stock and would be 7 to 10 days.


My new bracket was installed anyway.


I could not complete the alternator re-clock because the brushes had to be ordered again. Yes, that is 1/2 of an alternator mounted in there.


March 8th, 2020

This was water-pump weekend!

My new parts arrived, high performance water pump and pulley/bracket set both purchased at CVF Racing. I was a little bit leery of leaving March, the manufacturer whose pulley/bracket system I was replacing, but I took the leap. More on that later.

Reasons for replacing the electric pump were many, I’m not sure if I’ll put a heater in it someday or not, but at least I can hear the stereo now.


New pump, black powder-coating that should help tie in the black valve-covers.


Each component came wrapped in soft foam within a single box, some of them had a little bag of bolts with them, some did not.


Pulleys, brackets and hardware, that is a fan for the alternator on the far right..


Power-Master 140a alt is loose and swiveled to the left. Note the finish is wearing poorly? This is the underside, the top looked even rougher.


Alternator removed entirely, have to remove the ider to get the bracket off.


“New” alternator sitting on the bench beside the older FoMoCo sytel alternator, I decided long ago to use the GM style “1-wire” setup.


There’s the old pump with lower hose still attached.


Some of the March setup. Know anyone wanting an electric water pump for SBF? Less than 100 hours on it 🙂


The pump out, all pulleys removed, mating surfaces cleaned. The rag is there because water was seeping out for an hour or so.


Before putting the alternator back I decided a shot or four of Corporate Blue was in order.


it cleaned up rather nicely.


CVF was FANTASTIC to work with. I contacted them via email late on Sunday evening and by  the next morning they said they’d send me the correct part. I offered to pay for it and get reimbursed when I return the old one, they said no need for all that, they trust me. I know it is not like there’s an underground marketplace for aftermarket alternator brackets but that was very nice of them



March 1st, 2020

I had a bit of a scare with the quarter glass. I knew when I took all the side glass apart (2 years ago while car was in paint/body) and cleaned/polished all the glass and stainless trim that I saved every screw in a labeled baggie. It doesn’t matter if you know that you saved everything when you cannot find the bags.

So I spent much of a day cleaning out storage bins drawers and boxes. I found them though!


Showing the amplifier mounted in the trunk, I think this time I am actually finished with the rear.


Had always planned on using small bolts to hold the shifter plate, decided to use rivets instead. You can also see the GPS is working.


Here you can see the bolts that hold the large rear to the small front section of the console, the two silver buttons behind the speakers. Also shows the LED courtesy lights, I chose a yellowish hue to sorta stick with the retro feel.


There’s the rivets finished.


The glass is all in, seven pieces of it, not counting the rear curtain, but that’s vinyl. Just because it is “in” doesn’t mean it is lined up, not at all!


Putting it away for the night. I need to connect the cable that moves the shift indicator “arrow”, then put the boot on and the console will be mostly done.

February 23rd, 2020

No more moving backwards!

While a true statement, it only means I haven’t taken anything apart lately. While I’m being sarcastic, I’m also optimistic. Moving forward inexorably one will eventually arrive at some destination. This update should probably be a 2-part post, the work shown took place over 10-13 days, but I’m lazy, so here it is in one shot.


With the backseat out for a few weeks I have completed the circuits for the console, wiring/cabling for speakers (8 wires), signal to head (9 wires), wiring to power windows (only 4 but split to two looms), and all of that needs to be in conduit and laid out with room for a retracted top.


Then there was installing all the parts for the regulators, being a powered version made it harder since I could not move the arms slightly with the ease of a handle right there, but having switches installed before the hardware reduced that greatly! The first one I put in took over twice as long as the second. It took a few tries to see which roller needs to be within which rail in which order…not hard…just…”specific”.


I pulled the backseat, probably the only stock part I have left. When I pulled it the amplifier was under there, I did not bother showing it since it was installed as a proof-of-concept for the stereo/head-unit. Anyway, when the seat was pulled you could see the leads for rear speakers and power window regulators.


This is the mess I had a few hours later. Too much to try and caption, but you can see multiple initiatives in there if you know where to look.


One thing we installed was these two quick-connects. I learned a trick long ag it may be ghetto, but install a pair bassackwards to each other so they cannot be cross-connected.


When I did test-fit number 24 (JK) of the console I quickly realized that my yellow/green connectors (see November 2019, second picture for context) were not long enough. The green one shown here was the real issue, I needed at least 8 more inched. so I made an 11 inch extension.


This took hours to do, but as I had an extra male and female connector, why not use them? These are 12-pin connectors, and I am only using 11 of them. With it being straight-through, it wasn’t hard.


But being anal about perfection, I spent almost 4 hours making these crimps. The silver “dust” in the foreground was from me filing down some solder.


There is it, 34 pieces as one. Would have been 56 pieces, but I used 14g wire and all those orange grommets wouldn’t fit over the fat wires.


Some loom makes it look like a real auto-part!


I mentioned moving the amp, here it is early in the process.


Amplifier mounted and partially wired in. Finally (20 years later?) mounted the fuse panel.


The holes circled in blue are the ones to use when mounting “Electric Life” window regulators in a 67 or 68 Mustang. Factory regulators used 4 bolts, these use 3 each. For the record,since they are manufactured in the EU, the bolts you want (not included) are M6-1.0 X 10mm. Factory boltes were SAE of course, and the correct length would be more like 8mm, but I installed a flat washer and a star-locker so the 10mm fit very well.


I found it best to have the top neither up nor down. Having it halfway made installation easiest with regard to interference.


It has been a long time since I’ve had a picture of both glass bits in there!




February 8th, 2020

I feel like I’m not showing enough progress, it definitely feels like I’m not making much progress sometimes. I think I said before that it is a two steps forward one step back situation. Well often it is one step forward and three steps back. But forward progression is occurring.

I’m still eliminating bugs in the wiring, think we have it down to just the speedometer (which is a serious puzzle) and then just as I’m to the point of being “done”, we decide now is a good time to rewire the trunk and amp, that is three or four steps back.

So to get a feeling like I’m moving forward I decided to tackle something that has been on the backlog for a while now…the rear quarter windows!


Driver’s rear quarter window assembly, this is the original part, and the rollers look ~54 years old!


Closeup of the best/cleanest one.


Another, the old grease is not only dried but hardened and will need to be scraped off.


Probably the worst of the six here, seriously thick layer of crud, nearly closes off the channel entirely.


Some elbow grease, plenty of carb-cleaner, a plastic screwdriver and a toothbrush…the nylon (?) rollers clean up pretty good.


For the most part they appear undamaged.


This one shows some scratches in the soft bits, right about 3:30 in this picture on the blue one. Nothing I’m too worried about though, at about $400 each for these assemblies, or having to press these out and press-in new ones…I’ll take my chances with these parts.


Side-by-side view of my old (manual) and new (power) regulators. These are for the passenger side. With the reg in this position I can work it into position, but I cannot bolt in in place! See the “gear” like part with the teeth sticking out to the left of the new unit? That is hitting the body within the door-jamb, notice the OEM reg doesn’t have that sticking out. After a short period of freaking out that these do not fit, I figured it out. I need to apply power to move the arm (coming out of the right side) from the 2:00 position to about 5:00 in order to install it. That moves the “gear” out of the way. Problem is I need to make new lines to go from the console to the rear quarters. I’ll work on that next!